Day 8 – Lima!
Long 12 hour flight from Madrid. It seemed to go relatively quickly though. Food was good, but it seemed like I was the only one on the plane who wasn’t fluent in Spanish! I struggled with my basic tourist Spanish to communicate with the air hosties (I do know some Spanish, and my Italian is half-decent, so I can bastardize that if required). Meh, I still got fed, so it’s not a big deal. Arrived into Lima just before 6am. And guess what? I HAVE A CIA WATCH ON ME!!!!! ROFLMAO! You can see the monitor the immigration guys use. I can’t believe I have a CIA watch on me! Classic! Wonder why though? Bags took ages to come out. Had to go through customs cos I have 2 cameras (you’re theoretically only allowed to bring in one without paying customs). They let me off without paying because my small point and shoot is old’ish and isn’t worth much on the open market. So got out and went to meet my pre-booked arrival transfer to the hotel. Who never showed up! I waited an hour before giving up and catching a taxi. Cost me US$30. A mega rip-off, but I got to the hotel (Hotel Maury) without being mugged or raped or shot or anything, so I guess I’m not going to bitch about that too much. Then the bloody taxi driver wanted a tip on top of that! I got scammed, but oh well. I was tired and didn’t really care that much. The hotel is nice. I think I’m just going to crash now for a bit. ZOMG!!! Latino tv is just as bad as every stereotype out there! ROFL! The first thing that came on when I turned the tv on was some show with a guy in a bee outfit. Remember that dude off The Simpsons? ROFL x 100. Changed the channel and the Spanish version of The Chicken Dance!!!!!! came on. ROFL x 1000. Totally classic. Anyway, slept most of the day away. Dunno what I’ll do tomorrow yet. Oh, one thing I need to mention – the ATM’s here only give out a limited amout of cash in each transaction, regardless of the high withdrawal limit you might have on your card. The ATM I used at the airport had a withdrawal limit of 400 S/. and also charged a 7.50S/. ATM fee for each transaction (ignoring what my bank at home is charging me in international transaction fees on top of that). It’s gonna add up real quick if I have to make multiple transactions to get any decent amount of local currency out. I have some USD, but I’m trying not to spend that unless absolutely necessary. Ugh. I think my body is purging all the crap fried food I ate in the last week. All I’ve had since I got here is a bottle of Inca Kola (which is like bright yellow creaming soda in case you care), no food yet, so I refuse to believe I’m getting sick.
Day 9 – Adventuring in Lima
So technically the first day of my tour (I had to get on a tour to get my Inca Trail permit). Met up with most of the group. Basically half Aussies and half Canadians. Everyone seems to be a bit older, so no young pissheads to ruin it! My roomie for the trip is a 30-something Canadian from Winnipeg. She’s excitable! But funny. We decided to spend the day going up to San Christobal ( the hill with the awesome city views) and going out to Miraflores. Both were fun. Had lunch in Miraflores (40 S/.) and tried the ceviche. Was nicer than I was expecting. I’d eat it again, maybe I’ll even google the recipe online when I get home. Ventured back to the hotel around 6 after a quick stop at the supermarket (so cheap!!!). Went to the hotel bar and had a pisco sour. This was apparently the bar where they were created at, so had to try one (9 S/.). Basically went back to the room and crashed after that. Have a 5am wakeup call in the morning to get the flight to Cuzco. Bloody workmen are jackhammering out in the street, been at it since midnight. Got no sleep. It sounded like gunfire, but turns out it wasn’t. Dooooom. Tired.
Day 10 – Conquering Cuzco
So up at 5am to leave at 6am to go to the airport for the flight to Cuzco. The driver took a short-cut only to realize that there was roadworks going on and the short-cut was completely blocked and not so short. So we got a scenic detour through the ghettos! Anyway, at least we got to the airport eventually and checked in easily enough. Went and paid our departure tax (~US$6.50 on the day). We got there pretty late so went straight to the departure gate for our 7.40am flight (on LAN). WHICH GOT CANCELLED! First they said “15 minutes late“, which it was, we saw it land. But for some reason they randomly cancelled it. So our tour director organised for us to get on the next flight, but the group got split in 2. Me, my roomie and the tour director ended up on the slightly later 8.40am flight. But when we went to board it with our reissued boarding passes, they said we were meant to have been on the 8.20am flight with the rest of our group – they didn’t want to let us on! LAN fucked up and they let us on about 30 seconds before departing. The scenery from the flight was amazing. Landing was smooth and our bags arrived despite the flight chaos. Got outside to an immediate reminder of Egypt. “Want to buy *insert item here*?“. Only here it’s in Spanish. Made it to the hotel La Posada led Pardo (I think?!?!). It seems nice enough. Though there’s no bath, only a shower. And no hair dryer. So we had an hour or so before lunch, so me and one of the other ladies went for a walk up to the Plaza del Aramas and to the old stone alleyway along Hatun Runiyoc (sp?). Spectacular. Took lots of photos and came across the first of the kids and old ladies with the baby lambs wanting us to take photos of them ( for a price of course!). They are cute, but no. I’m in no way going to support a kid ditching their education for what effectively amounts to begging on the street. There is government education available to these kids. Anyway, went back to the hotel and met up with everyone else and then walked all the way back up to the Plaza again for lunch. We got the set menu in a cafe type place for 9 S/. each! So much food. Yum! They had cuy on the menu, but the tour director said to wait till after the trek when we can go to a traditional restaurant and eat it there. Hahaha, should be hilarious! At any rate, we got given tickets fot the Basilica Cathedral and Qorikancha. The cathedral was totally ostentacious and overkill with the bling, but Qorikancha was really beautiful. Anyhow, had a nap after that before our “trek meeting” to discuss all the details. We just went to the minimart and got snacks for dinner. Then sleepytime! I’ve not suffered any sign of altitude sickeness yet. A good sign!
Day 11 – Sacred Valley Wanderings
Today we hired a minivan and a guide and went on a walkabout. We’d planned to skip buying the boleto touristico ticket (~130 S/. each) and just buy the 40 S/. individual entry ticket at the 2 sites we needed them for. But turns out the government changed a bunch of rules a week ago and foreingers are no longer eligible to buy the cheaper individual entry tickets and are forced to buy the 130 S/. touristico ticket. That almost caused a riot. So first we got to Saqsaywaman (pronounced a bit like sexy woman). Wandered round there for a while and got the history of the place from our guide. The stones are about 99% limestone and you can see some small marine fossils in some of them. Was really pretty. Then we moved on to a random stop at an animal rescue shelter and some some rescued llama, macaw and a couple of puma which had been rescued from a nightclub (of all places!). We gave a donation and then ventured forth to the llama farm! Lots of different types of llama, alpaca and vicuna. The guy there explained the differences and how their fibre varies (as with price). There was a small shop at the end selling their wares. A bit exxy, but I bought a small llama plushie (stuffed toy) made from baby llama wall for 89 S/. It’s cute and soft. After that we drove on to Pisac. We got cheap empanadas from a street cafe (and for future reference, I’m 99.99% certain this is what caused me to get sick) for 2 S/. each. Then we had 45 minutes to wander the markets. Not nearly enough time. Started my shopping though. Baby alpaca (more like maybe alpaca) sweater and an Inca Kola t-shirt for 60 S/., 2′ x 3′ wall hanging for 70 S/., 20cm x 30cm wall hanging for 10 S/. and a nice patterened (cotton weave) shoulder bag for 20 S/. Also got a silver Tumi pendant for 30 S/. Did ok with the bargaining I guess. Then got back on the bus for the 1 hour drive to Ollytatambo. DOOM HIT! Got about half way up the steps and my stomach decided to cramp up and do somersaults. I got up near the top and it was unbearable so I had to go back down and find a toilet. Not what I need the day before doing the 4 day Inca Trail! The site was spectacular though. Oh well. Was late afternoon by then so it was time for the 2 hour drive back to Cuzco. Had Chinese from a Chiffa place for dinner. Stomach is still killing me. Can’t believe I got funny tummy now. Shit timing (literally and figuratively). Packed for the trail and hired a sleeping bag for 35 S/. and a walking stick (20 S/. each – I only got one) for the 4 days. So tired. So sore. Hope I get a good night’s sleep! Up at 4.30am tomorrow 
Day 12 – Inca Trail Day 1 (Doom)
So was up all night puking my guts up and other associated bodily functions you get with gastro. Not pleasant. Had to wake up at 5am to get the bus to drive us to km82 to start the trek. The bus was late, so when we got to km82 for passport control, the line was huge. To actually get on the trail you need to have your original passport that you booked the trail permit with (ie. no photocopies or new passports) otherwise they won’t let you on. I felt like crap just waiting for passport control. It went downhill (not literally) from there. I really seriously struggled. I’m fit. I run every day and I work at altitude. But being sick like this just threw me. I honestly just wanted to curl up into a ball and die. No joke. About an hour and a half before making final camp for the day I ended up puking my guts up pretty badly. The official guide cam back and carried my daypack to the campsite for me cos I was so weak. I made it to camp around 6pm about 30-45 minutes after the main group. But I made it. Now all I want to do is sleep. Maybe tomorrow I’ll feel better? Not holding my breath
Just as an aside – the car crash! On the way to Ollytatambo in the morning, some guy had his car (taxi) parked on a hill…But apparently didn’t have his handbrake on, because it suddenly came rolling down the hill and sideswiped our minibus! Seriously. Took out all the side mirrors and stuff on the bus, but the taxi lost a door! The panel beaters will have a field day with that one. Silly twit not using the handbrake 
Day 13 – Inca Trail Day 2 (Doom∞)
The day from hell. Not only did I get no sleep last night due to still being sick, but today is without question considered the hardest day of the 4 day Inca Trail trek. I started out ok (uphill) but got worse as the day wore on. The last 20 steps just before the summit of Dead Woman’s Pass nearly killed me. I swear (literally at the time!) that I almost passed out. Shortly after that we went downhill and had lunch. I figured I’d buy a bottle of Gatorade (8 S/.) which is almost twice the price of Cuzco, but such is life (you’re paying for the convenience up here). Then we ventured forth to the second pass. I made it. Barely. It’s interesting that the majority of my group found the 2nd pass harder. I thought the first was far far worse. Anyway, we made it to camp around 5.30pm. I am so sore. My stomach seems to have settled a bit. But the constant up and down today was hard on the muscles and joints. Had a really light dinner (still have no appetite) and crashed straight away. 6.20am start tomorrow, but apparently it’s almost all downhill. My head is now starting to block up. Just what I need.
Day 14 – Inca Trail Day 3 (Improving!)
So it was almost all downhill literally today. My head has blocked up like I thought, but my stomach seems to be ok now (touch wood). So after our 5.30am wakeup call we got moving. After all the rain from yesterday thought it was slippery as hell. When we were going through one of the tunnels yesterday, I slipped on a wet rock because today my groin hurts like hell. Made walking hurt. A lot. Especially combined with the regular muscle pain you’d expect from the hell that is Dead Woman’s Pass yesterday. I did alright today though. We stopped at a couple of ruins along the say and in the afternoon (we got to the camp for the night at lunch!) we visited Winyawanya. The ruins there are amazing. Stayed there for a while and then went back to camp. The camp on night 3 has real toilets (a bit rank though) and showers (costs 5 S/. for a shower and 5 S/. if you need to hire a towel) but we all decided to forego that because we only had dirty clothes to get back into after the shower anyway. Had a drink at the bar there (exxy though at 8 S/. for a coke). Then went and had our last camp dinner and said goodbye to the porters. They were awesome and really deserved the tip they got from the tipping kitty (IIRC, we each put in 115 S/.). But 4am wakeup tomorrow to make the final trek to MACHU PICCHU! YAY!
Day 15 – Inca Trail Day 4 (It was worth the pain)
So after the 4am wakeup call we had our last camp breakfast. The reason for being up so early apparently has something to do with the porters working hours. We didn’t actually leave camp till 5.30am. But before we left a few of us went to use the proper toilets in the restaurant/bar. But nasty on a whole new level. They’d stopped flushing at some point and were literally overflowing with shit. It’s enough to make anyone hurl. Anyway, I’ll spare the details. We made good time to the Sun Gate (1 hour 15 mins from camp). Was downhill most of the way and seemed awesome. Until you hit the stairs of doom (TM: me!) at the bottom of the Sun Gate. We were there for sunrise, but it was pretty foggy/cloudy so we only had a partially unobstructed view of Machu Picchu from there. Was then another 40 minutes mostly downhill to get from the Sun Gate to Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu is just as amazing as it looks in the books and on tv. Better even. At the top we stopped for a bit to get the money shots of Machu Picchu and Wanya Picchu and stuff. Hope they turn out ok. We then went down to near the bus stop to dump some gear (you can’t take the hiking sticks inside). There’s a small cafe there, but very exxy (13 S/. for a coke as opposed to the usual 3 S/. you pay normally). You can also leave your big back or something there for 3 S/.
Now as for the camera issues that had been ranted about online…I had my DSLR with an 18-55 and a 75-300mm lens on me. They never even looked inside my camera bag or my day pack. Let alone question me over any of it. That guy online was either full of shit or he did something stupid to piss off the security guards. I saw people walking in with HUGE lenses on their DSLR with no problems. You have to pass security (show your passport) to get into the site and I spose they could randomly back check, but it’s insanely busy there and they probably wouldn’t bother unless you’re being a complete wanker.
Anyway, out trek guides then gave us a 2 hour tour of the site. There’s little baby llamas in there!!! So cute! Got heaps of photos. We didn’t have to meet back in Aguas Calientes until 4pm (train left at 5), but some of us were really tired so got the bus down around 1 to grab some lunch and wander the markets. Had lunch at some pizza place (30 S/. for a medium pizza, exxy, but it was good). It’s really axxy in Aguas Calientes but you are paying to the location/convenience. The markets there were nice and I picked up a small framed (brass?) Inca warrior thing for 20 S/. In the end we all met up and got the 5pm train to Poroy. It was meant to get in at 9 but we arrived at 8.15 which was good. Almost a case of deja vu though when they stuffed up the tickets for the same 3 of us who nearly missed the LAN flight from Lima! They’d given us seats in a carriage that didn’t exist! Got back to the hotel around 9 and checked email (work sucks sometimes – I’m on holidays, deal with it!). Then had my first shower in 4 days! So good! And sleeeeeeeeep…
My Inca Trail wrap-up
Despite being sick for more than half the trek, I’m really glad I did it and am proud of myself for succeeding. Yes, on the first day I admit I thought I wouldn’t make it. But I persevered. This had to be the most challenging thing I’ve done to date (and that includes grad school!), because you don’t know what to expect. I’m fit and healthy and work at altitude, but I got hit with a random stomach bug. Seriously though, you do need to have a reasonably high level of fitness to do it. Do some 10km+ day hikes on the weekends for training or spend 2-3 a day on a stairmaster! And don’t poo-poo the walking sticks! I almost did, but am so glad I had them, especially downhill in the rain. Also, be prepared for really nasty suqat toilets and no shower for almost 4 days. We heard some idiots complaining about it. You’re at 4000m altitude in the mountains ffs! What did they expect? The Hilton? Be nice to the porters, they make life tolerable if not quite pleasant on the rail! That’s another thing, even though I booked the Peru trip through a tour group company, they contract the trekking bit out to a local mob called “Highland Peru“. They ere really well organised, the trek leaders were great and knowledgable, the porters were friendly and seemed well looked after (the company made sure to enforce regulations). Yet another thing, you do need thermals. The second night is cold as hell. What else? If I think of anything more, I’ll edit the blog entry.
Day 16 – Cuy in Cuzco
A relative sleep-in today. Didn’t get up till about 9. Muscles are still a bit sore, but meh. It’s over and I survived and Machu Picchu was awesome. So we made plans at breakfast to meetup at lunch to go to a place that does traditional Peruvian food. A bunch of us really wanted to try the cuy (guinea pig). But until then I wandered up to the local markets in San Pedro Square. The smells from all the juice places was sooooo good. Not much tourist stuff there though. Stayed there about an hour before I decided to go for a wander around the shops in the main square. I bought an “I survived the Inca Trail” t-shirt (10 S/.) and a small copper plate with a llama on it for my parents (also 10 S/.). They’ll probably use it as an ashtray though knowing them. Then went off to the restaurant to eat rodent! The photos of my proof of eating are on Facebook. It tasted a bit like a cross between chicken and duck. It is really greasy though and made me feel a bit queasy afterwards. The cuy cost 48 S/., so a bit exxy but it was something I had to try anyway. One of the others bought some alpaca steaks and antichuko (cow heart). I tried the alpaca steak. Tasted a bit like lamb, but a bit saltier. After that I came back to the hotel for a nap. Met up at 5 to discuss flights and stuff for tomorrow. We also decided to go to the music/dance show on the boleto touristico ticket that we bought for our Sacred Valley wanderings last week. It was alright I guess. Then after that we decided to go out drinking and dancing at some salsa club. 8am wakeup in the morning, so won’t be a big night.
Day 17 – Back in Lima
Ugh. I drank too much last night. Started out drinking Argentine red wine, then had a vodka and then started on Long Island Iced Teas (seems to be a trend when I’m on holidays – bad memories of New Years in Egypt!). I remember getting in the taxi at the nightclub, but don’t recall getting out or paying the guy. I probably massively overpaid him. Anyway, made our goodbyes at breakfast as half the group is off to Puno today while the rest of us head back to Lima. Was a great group of people. Made it to the airport for the 10.30am LAN flight (tax ~US$4.25 on the day) but it was a bit late. Got to Lima 40 mins hate and then the airbridge wouldn’t work so we got stuck waiting on the plane for another 45 minutes on the tarmac while they organised stairs and buses to get us to the terminal. Had a transfer to the hotel and crashed for a bit. Not feeling 100% so spent the rest of the day in bed watching tv. Can get a bunch of US channels, so been watching CSI, Law and Order, Grey’s Anatomy etc. A good relaxing day. Have to be up at 7.30-8am tomorrow for my 9.15am transfer to the airport for my flight to Quito. Peru’s been totally awesome. Definitely going to be back again in the future!
Up next – Ecuador (or more accurately – The Galapagos Islands!!!)
